Nile Cruise

I was only thinking over the weekend what a wide range of vessels are available to those wanting to cruise the Nile.

At one end of the spectrum you can cruise on a “felucca” which is a real “no-frills” option with no cabins, no toilet and no running water, where you will sleep on the deck or “camp” on-shore each night. These can be booked independently in Aswan but you need to determine just what is included in your trip. A real “adventurer’s” option.

At the other end of the scale is the Oberoi Zahra, the newest and most luxurious Nile cruise ship currently sailing.

In between are a large selection of 4 and 5 star ships that you can choose from depending on your taste and budget. Obviously we have our own favourites that we know and can recommend. The King Tut 1 and the El Fostate being just two of several we would suggest.

Plus there are the beautiful “Dahabiyyas” that I mentioned in an earlier post, which are luxurious and a true sailing experience.

So, like many thing in life, you get what you pay for and, on the Nile you can pay as little or as much as you like.

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On Tuesday I wrote about dahabiyyas and what a wonderful way it would be to cruise The Nile on such a vessel.

Well on Sunday there was a short article in the Observer Magazine’s series called “Incredible Journeys” where a series of journalists and celebrities describe their own incredibale journey.

One of which was a piece by Lyn Hughes where she describes her own Nile Cruise by dahabiyya and how marvellous she found the experience.

Here’s the piece in case you missed it. With credit to Lyn Hughes.

This article appeared in the Observer on Sunday March 09 2008 on p65 of the Comment & features section.

The small chapel was dark as the door shut behind us. ‘I have a surprise for you,’ said Amro, our guide. ‘Come through here.’ The hairs rose on the back of my neck as a shaft of sunlight appeared, illuminating the lion-shaped head of a black granite statue. It could only be Sekhmet, a goddess known for meting out punishment to enemies of the pharaohs.

In the silence of the Temple of Ptah, it was hard to believe we were only a hundred yards away from the thousands of tourists swarming like ants around Karnak Temple. But you would only find this little temple, missing from most guidebooks, with luck or guidance. Here, we felt the same sense of discovery that Victorian travellers to the Nile would have done.

Back on board our boat, it wasn’t long before a breeze developed and the captain gave the orders for the sails to be raised. I was on a stunningly beautiful recreation of a dahabiyya, the Arabian sailing boats that 19th-century aristocrats used to charter. Brand new replicas are being built, faithful to the original style, but with air-conditioning and en suite bathrooms.

Away from the melee of Luxor, we could have been sailing through any century. Fishermen were out in small wooden boats, casting large circular nets. In the reeds we caught glimpses of bitterns, gallinules and occasional kingfisher. Young boys raced along on donkeys, with a sense of urgency, stick in air.

At Edfu we moored as the sun went down, and headed for the Temple of Horus. The second largest temple in Egypt is wonderfully preserved, having spent centuries buried under sand. The floodlights were on, illuminating the famous reliefs of Ptolemy XII. Inside the halls, our imaginations ran riot as we could almost feel the presence of the temple priests.

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Here’s a unique way that you can cruise the Nile. Do it on a Dahabiyya.

In the late 19th century, aristocrats and sophisticated travellers loved to cruise the Nile in the style and comfort of their private ‘dahabiyyas’, beautifully crafted wooden ships with from four to ten cabins and a host of servants. They rented the boats for many weeks at a time and made their way from temple to temple enjoying the river breeze. Dahabiyyas were popular amongst those who wished to enjoy Egypt at a leisurely pace, to drink in the landscapes, and peruse the monuments and villages on the riverbanks.

Travelling by dahabiyya is a unique, peaceful and relaxing experience. There are up to 10 crew for 12 passengers.

As an example the dahabiyya “Nesma” is an traditional ‘dahabiyya’ and is outfitted in colonial style with oriental and Egyptian touches. The interior boasts period furnishing and each cabin has its own individual decoration. It has six compact cabins measuring 5.75m x 2.50m; each with its private bathroom of 1.25m x 2.50m with a toilet, wash basin, shower and hairdryer. Four cabins have two single beds and two a double bed (triple cabins are not available) and the maximum capacity is twelve passengers. The cabins are located towards the front of each boat on the starboard and port sides, separated by a central corridor. The communal lounge covers the width of the boat and is a lovely setting for serving meals. The kitchen is at the stern, while the staff cabin and sitting areas are located aft. The engine room lies beneath the kitchen and electricity is provided by generators. Both the public area and cabins are fully air-conditioned.

We can now offer you a choice of Dahabiyyas and a choice of itinerary. For example a 12 day “Nostalgic Nile” Cruise with 3 nights’ bed and breakfast in Cairo and a 7 day all inclusive cruise costs from £1,599 with flights.

If you want to experience a truly memorable Nile Cruise or if you have already cruised the Nile and want to return and experience a totally different atmosphere then a dahabiyya might be exactly what the “doctor ordered”. (more…)

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